I have had the Morgan Jeans pattern for ages and have used the instructions to help me through construction while copying a RTW pair for my husband, but this is the first time I have made them for myself.
I made them out of leftover cone mills denim from some other project – I think the RTW copy for my husband. This is non-stretch, so I was keen to ensure I did the right adjustments.
Unfortunately, while I was sure I added the right additional width in the right places, these are too big. I did the baste fit at the appropriate place, but they are still definitely too large. I also did a full stomach adjustment and did it on the fly to match, but I suspect the length of a fly remains constant across sizes, so that just looks a bit long and odd.
I did do a small flat seat adjustment, which I think was relatively successful. I am not sure if I need to do more, because taking in the sides (and possibly back seam) will change the look. They look good from the sides, but are a hot mess of draglines at the back.
You can see the width that I need to take out in the above. I guess I will do that on this pair, though it will pain me to undo the waistband and topstitching. UGH.
This fitting/adjustment balance is a constant dilemma for me – if I adjust anywhere near where the pattern thinks I should, things tend to swim on me. I think it’s a waist-hip ratio thing. Time to stop wingeing about it and make a trouser block I think…
I have another pair cut out (long) already, so at least I can adjust some before I sew them.
All the deets:
Pattern: Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans (as shorts)
Size: 18/20
Adjustments:
- Added 1/2 to the front and back side seams at the hip (total 2″ extra)
- Did a 1/2″ slash and spread (full tummy) at the front
- Did a 1/2″ slash and overlap (flat seat) at the rear
- Took some back in from the side seams during baste and fit (not sure how much)
Fabric used: Cone Mills denim (probably from CCP or Blackbird)
Like it? Wearing it? I love this pattern, but am not wearing them because they are too large. I will need to unpick the waistband etc. UGH.
Notes for next time:
- Need to work out the baste and fit dilemma – what am doing wrong?
- Make a woven trouser block and compare
- Definitely want to make these again and perfect a pattern